Understanding South America - Lesson One: Things are not always as they seem to be...

Example #1: So, your bus says it is taking you to... hmm, let's say Pisco, for example. Your ticket says you are going to Pisco. The schedule on the wall says the bus to Pisco is leaving in 10 minutes. These are all distortions of the truth. In reality you will be dumped 5 kms away from your destintion on the side of the PanAmerican highway as bait for the taxi voltures.

Example #2: It says Ketchup.... trust me, it is not the Ketchup you know and love. Don't eat it.

Example #3: This old lady. Look at her closely. To the untrained eye it would appear that she is only a little old indigenous lady chattering on a cell phone while leaning against a post. Nice try! That's what they want you to believe. She's soooo transparent, everyone knows little old indigenous ladies don't just chatter away on cell phones. Plus, she's not leaning against the post, she's hiding behind it. Yes, in reality she is actually an undercover CIA agent waiting to send instructions into Colombia should the impending results of yesterday's elections go... oh, I don't know... wrong.

Sunday May 28th, 2006... What a day, what a day.

PART ONE: Choo choo, toot toot, whatever... We're ridin the Gringo Express!!

(Video 1; Video 2)

Ok, I have to breath... Today was such a long and eventful day I have to break it down into bits. This first part began this morning at 6:30 am when I boarded the train in Riobamba. Not just any train, oh no! This is the Gringo spectacle train. Yes, this train carried a hundred odd (no pun intended, but I'm certain this is the way the locals saw us) tourists 7 hrs on the top of a train, simply for the fun of it. The climax of the trip is supposed to be the Nariz Del Diablo switch-back decent down the cliffs. Now, I wasn't sure if this part was considered thrilling because of the height of the drop from the edge of the tracks or just because of the switch backs themselves? They aren't very scary on their own, but when you're looking straight down to the rocks a hundred feet below they certainly do a number on your nerves when you start thinking, "what if they didn't orchestrate the switch back properly and the train isn't 'buckled in' just right?". I must say, the best part of the trip was at the beginning when, as we crossed the countryside, people would come specially to their doors or turn from their fieldwork, and kids would come running, to wave at the passengers going by. I know it sounds silly, but it really was a nice feeling, all these strangers waving at each other.... and cue the "What a Wonderful World". hahaha.... no seriously, I was listening to my music and Louis Armstrong unexpectedly came on at the perfect time.... it touched my heart! haha. Until of course, I realized that the only reason all the adorable little kids were running down the hills to wave at the trains is because they are accustomed to having candy thrown at them by the tourists. Not so cute anymore. I did see some sheep and pigs travelling upper class! Anyway, the trip was great. The views were spectacular. The wind was frigid. And I was fully ready to be off by the end.